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23 August 1862

Sioux-indianerne ga opp det første angrepet på nybyggerbyen New Ulm i Minnesota, men fire dager senere kom de tilbake. Byens forsvarere, forsterket med noen hundre dårlig bevæpnede soldater, forsøkte å møte indianerne i... Read more ...

23 August 1862

Det andre slaget om New Ulm
Sioux-indianerne ga opp det første angrepet på nybyggerbyen New Ulm i Minnesota, men fire dager senere kom de tilbake. Byens forsvarere, forsterket med noen hundre dårlig bevæpnede soldater, forsøkte å møte indianerne i linjeformasjon, men indianerne ventet til soldatene hadde åpnet ild og gikk deretter til angrep. Milits og soldater flyktet inn mot byen der de hadde satt opp barrikader. Indianerne var tallmessig overlegne, og klarte derfor å omringe hele New Ulm.

Innbyggerne i New Ulm trodde på et tidspunkt at de hadde fått forsterkninger, men da en gruppe soldater prøvde å få kontakt med det de trodde var sårt tiltrengt hjelp fant de raskt ut at det egentlig var indianere som hadde kledd seg ut som hvite. Soldatenes nestkommanderene, kaptein William B. Dodd ble drept i denne hendelsen.

Litt senere på dagen klarte siouxene å flankere barrikadene, og kunne dermed rette en drepende ild mot forsvarerne. De hvite svarte med å gå til motangrep utenfor barrikadene, og drev indianerne tilbake. Etter dette bestemte soldatene seg for å brenne ned alle bygningene utenfor barrikadene. 190 av de 239 bygningene i byen ble brent ned, og de 2500 innbyggerne hadde dermed bare 49 hus igjen.

Neste morgen kom siouxene tilbake, men skjøt bare noen ufarlige skudd på lang avstand før de forsvant. Neste dag ble innbyggerne evakuert til Mankato rundt 5 mil øst for New Ulm. De ble eskortert av 150 soldater og kom trygt frem.


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    Featured article

      R&D Conversion Cylinders

    • R&D Conversion Cylinders

      Percussion revolvers, also known as cap and ball revolvers, were made by the thousands before and during the war, but the principle of muzzleloading started to become obsolete when the new metallic cartridges became common after the war. This article shows you how to convert a percussion revolver to fire metallic cartridges.

    Make your own drop tube stand

    Category: Miscellaneous
    Published: 7 September 2014 by Øyvind Flatnes.
    Views: 6897


    The video shows the three different methods for compressing black powder, as well as how you can make a drop tube stand.

    A drop tube is used for compressing black powder loads.

    A drop tube is used for compressing black powder loads.

    The drawing shows how a stand can be made.

    The drawing shows how a stand can be made.

    The difference between a compressed (right) and not compressed load.

    The difference between a compressed (right) and not compressed charge.

    Alternatively you can make one of these stands.

    Alternatively you can make one of these stands.

    In order to load match-grade black powder cartridges it is important to compress the powder. This allows for more powder in the case, as well as improved combustion and accuracy. There are several methods for compressing black powder, but pouring the powder through a long drop tube is one of the simplest and best methods – especially if you mechanically compress it afterwards. This article shows how you can make a sturdy drop tube stand with simple tools.

    To make a drop tube stand you need a couple of wood boards and two eye screws, in addition to a saw, a hand drill and files. The eyes of the screw must be large enough to accept the drop tube.

    As seen from the drawing, one of the boards is made into a drop tube holder, while the other serves as a base. You can of course glue or otherwise fix the two parts together, but you save storage space by dismantling the stand after use. The two parts are fitted together through a rectangular opening in the bas the matches the drop tube holder.

    The drop tube holder is approximately 13in high. A bevel edge allows you to remove cases without bumping into the stand and also makes room for a loading block. Make the bottom end rectangular. This piece will later be fitted into the base. The height of the shape is identical to the height of the base.

    Screw the eye screws into the front of the drop tube holder; one at the top and one just before the bevel. To prevent the wood from cracking, pre-drill holes before mounting the screws.

    The base is simply a rectangular shaped piece of wood. Make sure it is perfectly level. Draw the outline of the drop tube holder's base. To make the rectangular opening, use a drill and mill out as much wood as you can before finishing the shape with a file.

    The drop tube stand is now practically done. Find a drop tube and insert it through the eye screws.

    To adjust the height of the tube, thread an O-ring on the tube and rest it against the uppermost eye screw. A rubber band or similar does the job as well.

    I use a loading tube from Pedersoli that I use for loading muzzle-loading rifles. Similar tubes can be made from copper, aluminum, brass or similar. To avoid powder spillage the tube should have a funnel at the top.

    Download illustrated instructions here. The measurements are not critical, but make sure the stand is stable.

    But does this method work? Yes, it does! Take a look at the picture to the right that shows two identical 70 grain loads of Swiss #4. The load to the left is weighed and poured directly from the weight into the vial, while the load to the left is weighed and dropped through and 28in (63.5 cm) drop tube. The difference is approximately 0.5mm/.020 in. The vial is .40in/10.16mm in diameter.